Author: hamblog

Here are the notes I am taking while Molly and I are on a road trip through Idaho (briefly), Wyoming, and Montana, October 2018.

Part 1 is here | Part 2 is here  | Part 3 is here | Part 4 is here | Part 5 is here | Part 6 is here | Part 7 is here

OCTOBER 13, 2018

ESSEX, MT

Essex is where our caboose living has been. This is our abode as of this morning:

We heard it rain last night but we didn’t expect to wake up to a snowy wonderland!

But first, back to the caboose. It was a charming idea, retrofitting a caboose as tiny house.

Overall, it was nice; there was a stove and fridge and microwave and ample space in the kitchen so that Molly and I could kick back and cook (and draank the wine) for a couple nights. The main bedroom was a paradise, and right outside we could sit on the deck, bundled up, watching the sunset. But the sleeping platform (bedroom #2) was a bit nightmarish. The ladder going up was STEEP and once you were lying down, there was only about 18 inches between your nose and the ceiling. I would bump my knees on the ceiling when I bent them (I’m 5’4″). Not to mention a whole lot of houseflies were living up there, enjoying the warmth. Molly and I swapped nights to be fairsies; it was a shame as both of us were looking forward to separate bedrooms for a change. I recommend the caboose experience, but be warned — that sleeping platform is a real challenge. And be sure to choose a caboose farther in from the main road. It wasn’t bad, since we were in the off-season, but I could imagine the steady streams of cars would be distracting.

The main hotel is charming, cool and had a great gift shop. Important, because ALL I DID WAS BUY SOUVENIRS everywhere I went.

We wanted to do some last exploring of the Park before heading to civilization for our last night, but we were wondering about the snow and how difficult it would be to get back to the Park. Well, AGAIN because we are US and MAGIC, the snow magically disappeared and the Park presented herself in her autumnal glory – yet again!

Again, I was huffing and puffing on the inclines, but this time it all had a special wheezy quality. And thus a suspected respiratory infection has begun. I’m going to be a lot of fun on my business trip I’m taking in 3 days!

And that…was that. We honestly could not have seen more of the outskirts of Glacier National Park — we did all we could.

And so it was time for civilization, (more) shopping, and some perfect Americana attractions.

This is our third visit to a vortex – we went to Santa Cruz’s Mystery Spot years ago and through Sedona about three years ago. Now it’s on — the quest to visit all the (kitschy awesome) vortexes (don’t call them vortices!!) in all the land.

This one was special. The tour was great, the special powers of the vortex were convincing, and it was a nice little forest walk, to boot. No Sasquatch were sighted but the guide said they have been “very active” in the area. (Saw a great magnet later in the day with an illustration of the classic Bigfoot and it says “I have nothing to prove to you people”)

    

We spent quite a bit of time shopping in charming Whitefish, then on to Columbia Falls, which is our destination for the night. We celebrated by eating dinner at the Nite Owl and I had my own personal party of two porkchops, a bunch of Molly’s Tater Tots and a piece of coconut cream pie before my gastric system started screaming.

Next to our uneventful motel is a ceramist’s studio, Montana Earth Pottery. The artist (Judy Howell, I believe her name is) has been there since 1981 and has a super cozy, two-cat studio. Come over and I will serve you a treat in my brand new bison bowl!

We’re getting sad that tomorrow we are going our separate ways. I made the mistake tonight of checking my work email, whu-whuuuuuh. This is what devastation wi-fi can inflict upon a girl.

Wrap up tomorrow!

Part 9 is here

Here are the notes I am taking while Molly and I are on a road trip through Idaho (briefly), Wyoming, and Montana, October 2018.

Part 1 is here | Part 2 is here  | Part 3 is here | Part 4 is here | Part 5 is here | Part 6 is here

OCTOBER 12, 2018

GLACIER NATIONAL PARK

The weather was a touch gloomy but that didn’t stop your intrepid gals from exploring as much Glacier National Park as could (legally) be explored. We headed back to the West Entrance of Glacier and to the Trail of the Cedars trailhead, which meandered around the lovely forest before starting the hike to Avalanche Lake, about 5.5 miles roundtrip.

 

Similar in ways to the many trails I’ve walked in California, and so different. Cedars, cottonwoods, yews, hemlocks. It was so quiet and gentle, and the water (a blue I’ve never seen) carved soft swirls in the rocks. We encountered a woodpecker, softly tapping on a cedar.

It would’ve been a super simple hike for me at sea level, with a slight uphill rise, but it has become apparent that I will never get used to nor enjoy a higher altitude — as usual, I was gaspy and annoying as my besieged lungs could not get their shit together. I was feeling like the only loser on the trail, until, on the way back, we passed a couple ladies who puffed at me “how much longer till we get there??”  I smiled beatifically and lied that it was only a little further, promise!

Of course, all cardio-vascular drama vanished as we arrived at the Lake. Look at those frozen falls! It was a little grey but that’s probably a mercy for ol’ Gaspy over here. I sat on a log and gathered myself as Molly explored. I chatted with a delightful couple from Minnesota, who inquired about our travels so far. I mentioned that we started in Pocatello, and the lady exclaimed “Oh, Pocatello – I got the worst haircut of my life there!”

   

It was another day like our time in Lamar Valley in Yellowstone. A few people around, just there to enjoy the incredible scenery. Gentle and friendly.

That is, until the school trip kids came and gave us motivation to step it up and OUT of there.

So then it was time to freeform. We had gotten as far in to actual Glacier Park as we could, and we were still in the mood to explore. I was behind the wheel, so Molly conducted some expert, map-only navigating and got us going northward on some cool back roads. The Mom Van did pretty well on the gravel portions. Go, Mom Van!

At this point of our travels, we have seen some wildlife, but Molly had her heart set on seeing a grizzly bear. This was our last day to get this done, so as I put the pedal to the metal, Molly scanned the rivers, fields and hillsides. We had one false sighting, a bear-shaped rock in a river (causing the nice gals in the car behind us to check on our welfare after we came to an abrupt halt and put on the hazards).

We continued to Polebridge, a quirky spot off the grid and the home to an amazing store. I didn’t realize this until I just looked it up, but we were only 22 miles from the Canadian border! We are tearing up the miles on this trip.

After a stop for baked treats, we headed back down the road. Then, literally right at the side of the road:

A fine young grizzly it was. Then two more a few yards away. This particular guy was dark brown and didn’t seem to be related to the others, who were more silvery in color. This theory was proven, as brown guy caught wind of the others and sprinted across the road to get away. That was an exciting moment on top of an already REALLY exciting moment!

Bear: check. We are exhausted. We have been staying in the past couple nights, cooking dinners in our surprisingly spacious kitchen in our caboose. More on the whole caboose thing tomorrow. Can’t believe how quickly this trip is going!

Go to part 8

Here are the notes I am taking while Molly and I are on a road trip through Idaho (briefly), Wyoming, and Montana, October 2018.

Part 1 is here | Part 2 is here  | Part 3 is here | Part 4 is here | Part 5 is here

OCTOBER 11, 2018

GREAT FALLS — GLACIER NATIONAL PARK

This was primarily a driving day. And what driving it was.

Already we knew that most of Glacier had closed down (and Yellowstone closed right after we left) so we were wondering what was waiting for us.

But of course, since we’re US and FULL OF MAGIC, the sun came out and everything was a sparkly wintery winky wonder.

We stopped at a store on the Blackfeet Reservation and I got a treasure.

And then we got closer to Glacier and the weather was clear and bright and it was pure autumnal splendor.

 

    

 

As usual, shit photos don’t convey any sort of the truly dramatic vistas that met us at every turn. The extreme verticality of the peaks to which the trees, both golden and green, didn’t seem real. By the way, the yellow pine-looking trees are actually larches, which do change colors with the seasons. It was unreal.

We headed to the West Entrance of Glacier and on to Apgar Visitor’s Center, where two very bored rangers were hanging around, since the Park was pretty much closed. I pointed out to Molly a Jenga game for sale, which was a special National Parks edition. One of the rangers said “You should check out the special National Parks Monopoly game sometime.” I asked which parks were Boardwalk and Park Place. “Yosemite and Yellowstone,” he replied. “And we think that’s bogus!” We agree! Glacier RULES!

We took a short hike on the Oxbow Trail and later, checked out McDonald Lake.

The lake with the foreboding-looking peaks of Glacier in background.

We’re staying in a CABOOSE for the next two nights! Photos to come.

Go to part 7

Here are the notes I am taking while Molly and I are on a road trip through Idaho (briefly), Wyoming, and Montana, October 2018.

Part 1 is here | Part 2 is here  | Part 3 is here | Part 4 is here

OCTOBER 10, 2018

YELLOWSTONE — BOZEMAN, MT

A rough night of sleep for both of us. The air is so insanely dry and my sinuses have just about had it with the dry, hay fever, altitude, nosebleeds. Apparently my snoring was so horrific that Molly tried to wake me by shaking the bed (after calling my name a million times).. which resulted in my SCREAMING awake because I thought it was an earthquake and I’m a little hair trigger, to say the least. Fun times in the tiny cabin!

Fortunately today we could take it easy and get on the road in a leisurely fashion, as we had only a longish but pretty uneventful drive up to Great Falls, MT — and to a bit of civilization (by which I mean FREE WI-FI!)

But first: Bozeman. Molly indulged me to take the detour so we could stop in this town. It figures in my family’s history, I presume it was a popular stopping place as it is about an hour away from where my grandparents’ ranch was, in Ennis. There was a large, ugly, yellow station wagon that kicked around in our family for ages, which was nicknamed “Bozeman” – presumably it was purchased there? These are some exciting memories I’m conjuring for you.

At any rate, of all the wonderful-looking museums in that town, we chose to go through the Gallatin History Museum, which was so great! It’s housed in the old jail, and I was majorly creeped out by the still-intact gallows on the second floor, but I was won over by the eclectic excellence. So many displays, so many cool touches. Lame photos.

 

BOZEMAN — GREAT FALLS

Uneventful checkin to our uneventful hotel, then to an uneventful dinner. But then – but then. A trip to the world famous Sip N’ Dip Lounge, where one sips drinks in a tiki atmosphere, as mermaids swim and frolic for you. Again, crappy photos of an outstanding experience. The pervy dudes ogling the mermaids made it a little less wholesome, oh cmon pervy dudes.

 

Molly and I purchased the best t-shirts we’re ever going to own. Molly think that’s hyperbole.

We’re getting a lot of stories about what the weather is going to be tomorrow, and received concrete confirmation that quite a bit of Glacier Park is going to be closed because of weather, but we’re soldiering on and bringing lots of puzzles with us, just in case this turns into an inside sort of trip from now on.

Go to part 6

Here are the notes I am taking while Molly and I are on a road trip through Idaho (briefly), Wyoming, and Montana, October 2018.

Part 1 is here | Part 2 is here  | Part 3 is here

OCTOBER 9, 2018

YELLOWSTONE

What a difference a day makes! We stepped out of our cabin into a picturesque wintery wonderland with actual snow falling out of the actual sky. Although hardly the perfect chilly autumnal weather of yesterday, we were super excited to get out and about. Both of us had a great night of sleep and were coffeed up.

 

We headed back down a little further south to explore. We stopped first at the Grand Prismatic Springs; the bad weather kind of turned the volume down on the colors in the pools (including my beloved Opal Pool, remembered from my trip in ’81) but still nice! I mean, Yellowstone on a bad day is better than [insert humorous location] on a great day!

 

And if we hadn’t stopped, we would’ve missed this very exciting wildlife sighting.

 

Then down to Old Faithful. I insisted to Molly that this was a must-see, but well, uh. As usual, we enjoyed the visitor’s center and displays (there’s never a plaque we won’t read and appreciate) but the crowds and the cafeteria food and the abundant but weirdly priced souvenirs made us get back on the road back up towards Mammoth.

We stopped at the Artists Paintpots and NOW we’re back to top-notch Yellowstone experience.

 

 

Molly and I could’ve watched and listed to this fumerole for the rest of the day.

We saw this kid on the warning signs EVERYWHERE so I thought I’d give him a shoutout, as he forever gets steamed horrifically by a geothermal feature that does not like being disrespected.

We stopped a few more times for some more geological shenanigans then POOF the day was close to over and this toddler got tired and insisted on some cabin time — with a whole lot of onlookers.

And we saw this map, made of many woods!

Oh, Yellowstone, Yellowstone! This travelogue is actually not easy to write because the visual majesty that paraded in front of our eyes, all day every day, isn’t anything I can convey.

We’re off to a non-Park location tomorrow before heading to Glacier — the weather reports for which we are eyeing nervously…

Go to part 5

Here are the notes I am taking while Molly and I are on a road trip through Idaho (briefly), Wyoming, and Montana, October 2018.

Part 1 is here | Part 2 is here

OCTOBER 8, 2018

RED LODGE — YELLOWSTONE PARK

What in blazes grows in these parts? I have never been so hay fever-ridden. It’s been a rough few nights of sleep time. Fortunately it was my turn to drive (Molly and I trade off days of driving and navigating), so I could just follow Molly’s instructions and not have to navigate – not one of my more honed skills.

We beat it back into Yellowstone, post haste. I’ve always declared that Yellowstone is my favorite National Park, based on dim childhood memories and an epic trip taken around the area when I was 17, with my mom, Aunt Pat, and sister Ann, which was one of the funnest summers of my life. I think my nostalgia for that time is linked to Yellowstone, and to even dimmer memories of visits to my grandparents’ ranch in Ennis, MT. But my actual concrete impressions of the actual Park are few. I remember Old Faithful and the Opal Pool and flashes of beauty.

Well, I remembered rightly.

Lamar Valley is a stretch that is known for a wildlife spotting, and it did not disappoint. Perhaps you’ll be disappointed because timing and distance kept me from taking many or any satisfying shots. But rest assured we saw moose and bison, and later, loads of elk.

Of all the incredibly nice moments so far, this was an extra specially pleasant one. There were just a few other people around, all united by the delight in seeing animals. It was very gentle and lovely. Not to mention the weather couldn’t have been more fall-perfect.

And some bison showed up, close enough to look like bison!

The Lamar Valley area was very beautiful to behold, but you could also see some steamy bubbly hot springs in the edges of the river, which hinted at some of the geothermal nuttiness that was just ahead.

We visited this cute petrified tree, a left over from when there were redwoods here, during a vastly different climate, long ago.

 

We liked this little guy. Also we know that he’s the last standing one from three that used to be side-by-side. The other two were dismantled by souvenir seekers in previous decades. And very back luck befell them since, as we all know, to take petrified wood is to lay a curse upon oneself.

We upped and overed it into Mammoth, which will be our home for the next two days. We were not prepared for Mammoth to be an actual little tiny town. Nor did we expect so may elk wandering and sitting around absolutely everywhere, looking pretty insouciant.

And then things got even more magnificent and malodorous. The land that is known as Yellowstone is basically atop a volcano, which leads to geothermal extravaganzas, including geysers, mudpots, fumeroles and springs. Yellowstone is constantly changing scenery, bizarre tableaux, beauty and strangeness.

 

And occasionally there’s a stenchy smell-track to this epic movie; sulphorous gasses that can be a little much.

 

But it was all so thrilling. What a day. Now we’re tucked into our little cabin in Mammoth, our home for two nights.

Go to part 4

Here are the notes I am taking while Molly and I are on a road trip through Idaho (briefly), Wyoming, and Montana, October 2018.

Part 1 is here

OCTOBER 7, 2018

JACKSON — DRIVING TOUR — GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK, WYOMING

After getting up at a responsible adult hour, gassing up, grocerying up, mapping up, and getting our fully-caffeinated selves into Mom Van, we took a suggested driving tour, looping from Jackson, north towards the Gros Verte River and hitting Mormon Row (“a line of homestead complexes along the Jackson-Moran Road near the southeast corner of Grand Teton National Park, in the valley called Jackson Hole.”)

We got excited seeing the Tetons. Little did we know, as we looped north to the Oxbow Bend, what was waiting for us.

And look. Holy moley. Minimal tourists, changing leaves, brisk but clear weather, and this. This!

Once we finished the loop, we stopped at the Visitor’s Center at Colter Bay Village.

We took a stroll out behind the Center to view Jackson Lake with the Tetons in the background. We found another hiking loop that took us even farther out. There was no one, and no sound except for the splashing of the lake water and the wind in the trees.

GRAND TETON — YELLOWSTONE

We had a lot of road to cover. We booked serious miles towards the East Entrance of Yellowstone. The scenery just did not stop.

YELLOWSTONE — CODY, WY

There was a point where were were like “enough of this perfect beauty” so we went to Cody and did some drankin’ at Buffalo Bill Cody’s old saloon and hotel.

WALMART

And then we stopped at Walmart, which cured us of the beautiful spectacle of nature.

WALMART — RED LODGE, WY

If this day weren’t perfect enough, we found ourselves at the PERFECT motel

And there was steam!

 

Molly thought it was gross and insane but I loooooved it. It was the first and last time my sinuses felt minimally normal this whole trip. 

We found an actual hipster eatery for dinner, and later Molly and I regretted our chicken and waffle dinner decisions, but not really.

Back to Yellowstone tomorrow for keeps! Whoopie!

Go to part 3